Saturday, December 31, 2011
Happy New Year
Hello to all of our friends. The New Year is quickly approaching (in less than five hours) here in Moshi, Tanzania. We hope that all of you are well and have plans with your families and/or friends. Be safe and be well.
Monday, December 26, 2011
Genocide Museum in Rwanda
While in Kigali, the capitol of Rwanda, Jon and I also visited the Kigali Memorial Center. It is a very modern museum that discussed the history of Rwanda and the events leading up to, during, and after the genocide in 1994. It was very informative and heartbreaking all at once. Some of the more interesting things we learned include: the Tutsi who were the target during the genocide had actually been considered the more "elite" group in history. It wasn't until they began to challenge their colonial leaders that the mentality was intentionally shifted by the French rulers to have the Tutsi seen as inferior. The genocide lasted only 100 days but is approximated to have killed almost 20% of the Rwandan populations. The genocide was essentially orchestrated by the Hutu government and military and while it primarily targeted the Tutsi, they also murdered thousands of Hutu if they were suspected of having any compassion towards the Tutsi. Anyone married to a Tutsi was seen as a "traitor". Children and women were targeted equally to men and women were systematically raped by HIV positive males in order to subject them to a longer death - the women are still suffering these affects today. There were photos and video interviews from witnesses that explained the brutality in detail. There were rooms full of body parts and personal items that were uncovered from mass graves found around the country. In one room there were thousands of pictures of victims that were displayed in order to put a more personal touch on the experience. There was also a room dedicated to the other genocides around the world. Perhaps the most interesting fact there was the the US had still not recognized as a government the Armenian genocide of 1915 that killed between 1 million and 1.5 million people. Maybe this has changed since the memorial was built, but to be honest I doubt it. The most upsetting of all the rooms, however, was the room dedicated to the children who were victims. They had large pictures of children and then told personal details like favorite food, song, and best friend followed by how they were murdered and at what age. It was impossible not to get emotional. The museum was an amazing experience in its own right. As Jon and I traveled the around Rwanda we saw numerous memorials where mass graves were discovered. We also saw an amazing recovery in a country with such a bleak past. The people were very friendly, happy, and the cities clean and organized. Rwanda is a very interesting place to be and we to have visited!
Rwanda Gorillas
We took an hour drive up an awful road (I guess that 4X4 was necessary) and then started our hike. It was steep, but not Glacier-steep and we were held up in the first five minutes as we climbed through community land past small homes, farm plots, cattle, sheep, children. At the painfully slow pace the group had to keep to stay together it took quite awhile until we reached the stone wall and forest marking the entrance into the park. Then the real hiking began. It was a brief section through some thick bamboo, which led to faint trails through the thick brush. After about two hours of that--which could have been covered much more quickly--we reached the trackers. There we left our packs and walked the two minutes, if that to where the gorillas were.The next hour is impossible to explain and actually give you any idea how incredible it was. There was a mother and baby in a tree. They came down and walked right toward me. The guides had to tell us a number of times to move this way or that to avoid getting in the way of the gorillas. Shortly after the mother and baby passed we settled in a group to watch their group. A black back, a not fully matured male, walked past where the head silver back was hidden from view. He must have done something because the silver back charged out from under his cover and my heart dropped to my toes. I had never seen such a large animal move so quickly, so swiftly, with such absolute power. He could have ripped the arms off three or four of us before the armed guards could have done anything. But he just wanted the black back to know his place in the group.
After this brief interaction the silver back retreated back to his hidden throne and we settled back down and watched the dynamics of the group. It was incredible to watch the juveniles play with each other, chasing one another around a tree or wrestling in the flattened brush. It was amazing seeing the mothers care for their little ones, to feed them, to groom them, to let them go on their own. It was beautiful watching the babies walk on their own, to flip and roll, to walk over to their relatives and wrestle and play. It was unbelievable when the third silver back of the group came over and laid on his back and all the others around him did the same before he sat ten to 15 feet from where we were watching.
In the end right before our hour was up, the top silver back came out and interacted with the third silver back and they walked right by me as I shot a video. I even had to move and they disappeared into the brush, followed by at least ten others. It was so incredible it brought tears to our eyes.
Monday, December 19, 2011
Merry Christmas
With Christmas less than a week away and the uncertainty of internet access, we just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. Hopefully you are with family or friends and that you will have a wonderful day. We miss our families and friends dearly and will be thinking of all of you. I must say that it hardly feels like Christmas down here just south of the equator. I still dream of snow and hope you have a white Christmas (if you want).
We are spending our final day in Uganda today and are about to head down to Rwanda this afternoon. We're trying to figure out the best way to get in on a gorilla trek and aren't sure if we head directly to the park and try to set up with a tour company or go to the capital of Kigali. Either way, Rwanda is looking to be expensive and we probably won't be there too long before we head into Tanzania.
Hope everyone is well.
Merry Christmas,
Jon and Carrie
We are spending our final day in Uganda today and are about to head down to Rwanda this afternoon. We're trying to figure out the best way to get in on a gorilla trek and aren't sure if we head directly to the park and try to set up with a tour company or go to the capital of Kigali. Either way, Rwanda is looking to be expensive and we probably won't be there too long before we head into Tanzania.
Hope everyone is well.
Merry Christmas,
Jon and Carrie
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Monday, December 5, 2011
Blog to follow
Hey everyone. While we're here in Africa, our good buddy, Ben aka Jammin, is leaving Dec. 6 for Argentina and Beyond. Please also check out his blog at http://benjaminpolley.blogspot.com.
The last week in Uganda
Wow! It has sure been an active week in Uganda. Last Sunday Carrie and I started our trip with the German Red Cross volunteers for four days on Mt. Elgon. We were successful in our climb of the highest point, 4321 m (14,259 ft.) Wagagai and 4165 m Jackson Summit. After a safe return, although we were wet and muddy--very muddy--we made our way from Mbale to Jinja. Instead of actually staying in Jinja we instead opted for the beautiful Bujagali Falls right along the Nile River. We spent a day in Jinja and went to the source of the Nile, where it empties out of Lake Victoria. The next day we went rafting along the Nile. It was called Class 5 and the waves were big. From what we heard and discovered first-hand, this was unlike other Class 5 rivers in that they seek out the difficult waves and try to flip the boats as it is so deep and relatively safe. I was nervous after seeing some of the photos of the flips until our first and then I realized how "safe" it actually was. We flipped a number of times in huge waves and rafted down the river in the rain. The water was warmer than the air and we swam in the Nile--thankfully no crocodiles! We purchased a CD of photos, but if you want to see 2-3 photos of our trip now, check out Nalubale Rafting on Facebook. The third from December 4 is the biggest action shot. Maybe we can add more later.
Hope all is well back home. I'm dreaming of snow but loving all that is happening here. Take care.
Hope all is well back home. I'm dreaming of snow but loving all that is happening here. Take care.
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Photos
Hello everybody. We have added a photo or two to a couple of the old posts. Check them out and we'll add more if and when we can.
Mbita
17/11/11
Yesterday was my 33rd birthday. It was possibly the first birthday that didn't much feel like one, but I enjoyed the day. Carrie and I had breakfast at the Elk; mandazi, an egg, and tea (yes, I had tea--not too bad), and then we walked to Rusinga Island, which is connected to Mbita by a causeway. On the causeway there was a Police check and an officer called us over and welcomed us as we spoke a bit in Kiswahili, which we said we knew very little.
Just after that we met Carolyne, who invited us to the Adams Acadamy where she worked with orphans. We agreed to meet her this morning to go there with her. She pointed us down a street, where we found we were in neighborhoods where the children came and yelled, "Mzungu! How are you?" to us. I shook their hands but felt a bit shy as we were off who-knows-where with who-knows-whose children. Eventually we turned back to the main street. We followed it to the Little Jewels Schoool, where the children ran to the gates and greeted us. We walked over and were asked inside. We sang with them and then they sang to us. We were asked insid eht school where they sang a bit more. We left for some treats to bring back.
We went to a store and bought some candies, one bag being Obama pops. He sure is popular here. We caught a boda-boda (motorbike) back to the school. They sang for us again and we photographed and videorecorded them and then gave them the treats. School let out and many of them walked with us, holding our hands, one boy coming as far as our hotel only to turn around when we left.
We had a nice dinner in an interesting hotel and came back for a couple drinks. We met two fellow North Americans, Kurtis from B.C. and Gabby from Boston, and had a couple beers with them and then went to bed tired.
19/11/11
On the 17th we met Carolyne in the morning and walked with her to the Adams Acadamy. Once there, the children went crazy and came to greet us. Even the children taking exams dropped what they were doing to come see us. We sang "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes" and other songs with the children and listened to their songs and a couple poems. Then we distributed the Obama pops, which were huge hits. They were also whistle pops, which the kids discovered quickly.
Carolyne asked if we would return after lunch as it was lunch time and the children didn't want to leave because they were afraid we wouldn't return. Our plan had been to go to Mfagano Island after seeing the school but I saw how much fun Carrie was having (I was too) and how excited the children were to have visitors so we said we would return. We walked back for a small lunch and a coke and some passion juice--which is amazing. Carrie left to get a couple of books to read in the afternoon. Just before she returned, Lilian, one of the teachers, came to collect us for the afternoon.
We walked back and when the kids saw we were coming back they ran and ran around the building, laughing and shouting. We entered, greeted them, and then sat and read the books. The first book kept their attention, but by the second they were losing focus. They were much more excited when Carrie would run around with them playing a form of "Simon Says."
After going outside for that we then made a circle and sang songs and played games. They sang some of their songs, my favorite being, "I have a ball, I put it here, I play better, I play better, I play better," and we taught them the "Hokey Pokey," which they really enjoyed. We played a game that was very similar to "Duck, Duck, Goose." After the day we walked back with many of the chilren, Peter (the chairman), Lilian, and Carolyne. We commited to seeing their farm/garden on Sunday after a couple days on Mfagano.
After getting back, exhausted, we realized w did not have enough money to stay until Sunday. Lilian had offered to go with us to Mfagano and show us around and in the morning yesterday, the 18th, when she came, with Peter and Carolyne, we told them our situation, apollogizing for comitting to more than we could. They understood and walked with us to the boat. Carrie, Lilian, and I boarded and had a tight, uncomfortable ride, smashed onto wooden-plank seats. It was beautiful, though, and we were happy once we reached Mfagano, after calling in to Takawiri Island first.
Once there, Lilian took us to meet her grandmother, who was upset with Lilian for not informing her there would be guests coming. She would have prepared us food but instead gave us two Fantas and a Sprite for Lilian. After leaving Lilian's grandmother, we stopped briefly to tour the power plant, powering Sena and possibly the whole island. From there we carried on to where Lilian was born and sat briefly on the beach admiring the fishing boats and the lake (and the children, of course--always the children). Then it was on to see her house where she grew up. I snapped a photo of her and Carrie on the porch.
After that we went to Carolyne's husband, Wilson's house. He stayed there with his mother, whom we also met. He prepared a lunch for us and then accompanied the three of us to the museum. Having read nothing more about the museum except that it was there, we were surprised to hear it was Ksh 250 a person and said we couldn't afford it. The woman offered to show us quickly for free, as we were also rushing to catch the last boat back to Mbita. It was interesting and had some great historical artefacts. From there we rushed to the last boat back in Sena and waited as it was late.
We caught the boat back, once it came, but were too late to see the farm. Instead, Wilson invited us to dinner at his and Carolyne's place. We came and brought some tea and milk to contribute as they had already given and done so much for us. Dinner was an appetizer of bananas, pineapple, and oranges and a main course of fish, sukawiki, ugali, and another vegetable similar to the sukawiki. It was delicious. We ate our fill and then Syndi and Donna--their children--recited some poems and sang some songs. As they sang their "Farewell Song," the lightning and wind really picked up and we left to not get rained upon. Carolyne, Wilson, and Lilian walked us home and there was an incredible electrical storm over Lake Victoria. We made it home before the rain and went to bed.
Yesterday was my 33rd birthday. It was possibly the first birthday that didn't much feel like one, but I enjoyed the day. Carrie and I had breakfast at the Elk; mandazi, an egg, and tea (yes, I had tea--not too bad), and then we walked to Rusinga Island, which is connected to Mbita by a causeway. On the causeway there was a Police check and an officer called us over and welcomed us as we spoke a bit in Kiswahili, which we said we knew very little.
Just after that we met Carolyne, who invited us to the Adams Acadamy where she worked with orphans. We agreed to meet her this morning to go there with her. She pointed us down a street, where we found we were in neighborhoods where the children came and yelled, "Mzungu! How are you?" to us. I shook their hands but felt a bit shy as we were off who-knows-where with who-knows-whose children. Eventually we turned back to the main street. We followed it to the Little Jewels Schoool, where the children ran to the gates and greeted us. We walked over and were asked inside. We sang with them and then they sang to us. We were asked insid eht school where they sang a bit more. We left for some treats to bring back.
We went to a store and bought some candies, one bag being Obama pops. He sure is popular here. We caught a boda-boda (motorbike) back to the school. They sang for us again and we photographed and videorecorded them and then gave them the treats. School let out and many of them walked with us, holding our hands, one boy coming as far as our hotel only to turn around when we left.
We had a nice dinner in an interesting hotel and came back for a couple drinks. We met two fellow North Americans, Kurtis from B.C. and Gabby from Boston, and had a couple beers with them and then went to bed tired.
19/11/11
On the 17th we met Carolyne in the morning and walked with her to the Adams Acadamy. Once there, the children went crazy and came to greet us. Even the children taking exams dropped what they were doing to come see us. We sang "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes" and other songs with the children and listened to their songs and a couple poems. Then we distributed the Obama pops, which were huge hits. They were also whistle pops, which the kids discovered quickly.
Carolyne asked if we would return after lunch as it was lunch time and the children didn't want to leave because they were afraid we wouldn't return. Our plan had been to go to Mfagano Island after seeing the school but I saw how much fun Carrie was having (I was too) and how excited the children were to have visitors so we said we would return. We walked back for a small lunch and a coke and some passion juice--which is amazing. Carrie left to get a couple of books to read in the afternoon. Just before she returned, Lilian, one of the teachers, came to collect us for the afternoon.
We walked back and when the kids saw we were coming back they ran and ran around the building, laughing and shouting. We entered, greeted them, and then sat and read the books. The first book kept their attention, but by the second they were losing focus. They were much more excited when Carrie would run around with them playing a form of "Simon Says."
After getting back, exhausted, we realized w did not have enough money to stay until Sunday. Lilian had offered to go with us to Mfagano and show us around and in the morning yesterday, the 18th, when she came, with Peter and Carolyne, we told them our situation, apollogizing for comitting to more than we could. They understood and walked with us to the boat. Carrie, Lilian, and I boarded and had a tight, uncomfortable ride, smashed onto wooden-plank seats. It was beautiful, though, and we were happy once we reached Mfagano, after calling in to Takawiri Island first.
Once there, Lilian took us to meet her grandmother, who was upset with Lilian for not informing her there would be guests coming. She would have prepared us food but instead gave us two Fantas and a Sprite for Lilian. After leaving Lilian's grandmother, we stopped briefly to tour the power plant, powering Sena and possibly the whole island. From there we carried on to where Lilian was born and sat briefly on the beach admiring the fishing boats and the lake (and the children, of course--always the children). Then it was on to see her house where she grew up. I snapped a photo of her and Carrie on the porch.
After that we went to Carolyne's husband, Wilson's house. He stayed there with his mother, whom we also met. He prepared a lunch for us and then accompanied the three of us to the museum. Having read nothing more about the museum except that it was there, we were surprised to hear it was Ksh 250 a person and said we couldn't afford it. The woman offered to show us quickly for free, as we were also rushing to catch the last boat back to Mbita. It was interesting and had some great historical artefacts. From there we rushed to the last boat back in Sena and waited as it was late.
We caught the boat back, once it came, but were too late to see the farm. Instead, Wilson invited us to dinner at his and Carolyne's place. We came and brought some tea and milk to contribute as they had already given and done so much for us. Dinner was an appetizer of bananas, pineapple, and oranges and a main course of fish, sukawiki, ugali, and another vegetable similar to the sukawiki. It was delicious. We ate our fill and then Syndi and Donna--their children--recited some poems and sang some songs. As they sang their "Farewell Song," the lightning and wind really picked up and we left to not get rained upon. Carolyne, Wilson, and Lilian walked us home and there was an incredible electrical storm over Lake Victoria. We made it home before the rain and went to bed.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Nakuru
15/11/11
Yesterday Carrie and I slept in a bit, had a sandwich at the restaurant, and then caught a matatu to Naivasha. From Naivasha we caught another to Nakuru. They had us pay for a seat for our bags as well as our own and we spent Ksh 600. At Nakuru we decide we were hungry and ate at a restaurant. I learned again that the chips (fries) were not very good. By the time we were wrapping up we decided it would be too late when we made it to Kisumu so we got a room in the New Mt. Sinai Hotel. We paid Ksh 600 for two beds, a bathroom/showere on the top/5th floor with views from the roof of the city.
We dropped our bags and went out in the city, into the market for fruit and eventually to an internet cafe. After spending time onlne we walked home and decided to check out the bar, Olkegei (or something like that) for a drink or two. As soon as we walked in, every eye turned our way and we heard mzungu this and mzungu that followed by laughter. Carrie saw someone, a woman, blow us a kiss.
We ordered and the bartender, a woman, set two chairs for us at a table where two guys sat drinking. They were quite friendly and tried to make us feel welcome, saying, "Karibu." Others, however, were quite scary. Carrie was tapped on the shoulder and starred at by a guy next to us at the next table until one of our new friends told him to quit. The starring never quit. Another guy came up to me and shook my hand and said something about not showing any fear and then demanded I give him 100 dollars. I said no and tried to ignore him. Our friends told him to beat it. At one point in our conversation he sat and looked at me saying, "God forgive, God forgive." This too I ignored and th brtender turned him around in his chair and then pushed him out of it. Our friends could sense our fear too and told us to relax and feel welcome. They bought us a second beer, but we didn't want it. We drank it anyway, having a nice conversation with Oke, George, and eventually Sammi. I sat there sweating and nervous, trying not to shake as I poured my Tusker into the glass. These three men were great, but we eventually paid up and said our goobyes. They were worried we had far to go until we told them it was just across the street. We left the bar and bee-lined right for our room. Once up on our roof, which our room was on, we relaxed and looked out on the city.
This morning we were up not too early and caught a matatu out of town. It is mayhem trying to catch one, with everyone swarming you trying to "help" you. We negotiated a price and once aboard were charged for our bags, which we stood strong and only paid half.
It was a cramped ride over mostly dirt, bumpy dirt, roads (at least in the middle section) from Nakuru to Kisumu. In Kisumu we had fish stew (with a whole fish) and ugali, and then we caught a bus to Luanda Kotieno. The bus was great as we had more room. Once we exited the bus we walked to where the ferry picked up in an hour but were able to get right on a boat that took us with about eight others to Mbita. In Mbita we found the Elk Guest House and relaxed the remainder of the evening. We're excited to be on Lake Victoria, Africa's largest.
Yesterday Carrie and I slept in a bit, had a sandwich at the restaurant, and then caught a matatu to Naivasha. From Naivasha we caught another to Nakuru. They had us pay for a seat for our bags as well as our own and we spent Ksh 600. At Nakuru we decide we were hungry and ate at a restaurant. I learned again that the chips (fries) were not very good. By the time we were wrapping up we decided it would be too late when we made it to Kisumu so we got a room in the New Mt. Sinai Hotel. We paid Ksh 600 for two beds, a bathroom/showere on the top/5th floor with views from the roof of the city.
We dropped our bags and went out in the city, into the market for fruit and eventually to an internet cafe. After spending time onlne we walked home and decided to check out the bar, Olkegei (or something like that) for a drink or two. As soon as we walked in, every eye turned our way and we heard mzungu this and mzungu that followed by laughter. Carrie saw someone, a woman, blow us a kiss.
We ordered and the bartender, a woman, set two chairs for us at a table where two guys sat drinking. They were quite friendly and tried to make us feel welcome, saying, "Karibu." Others, however, were quite scary. Carrie was tapped on the shoulder and starred at by a guy next to us at the next table until one of our new friends told him to quit. The starring never quit. Another guy came up to me and shook my hand and said something about not showing any fear and then demanded I give him 100 dollars. I said no and tried to ignore him. Our friends told him to beat it. At one point in our conversation he sat and looked at me saying, "God forgive, God forgive." This too I ignored and th brtender turned him around in his chair and then pushed him out of it. Our friends could sense our fear too and told us to relax and feel welcome. They bought us a second beer, but we didn't want it. We drank it anyway, having a nice conversation with Oke, George, and eventually Sammi. I sat there sweating and nervous, trying not to shake as I poured my Tusker into the glass. These three men were great, but we eventually paid up and said our goobyes. They were worried we had far to go until we told them it was just across the street. We left the bar and bee-lined right for our room. Once up on our roof, which our room was on, we relaxed and looked out on the city.
This morning we were up not too early and caught a matatu out of town. It is mayhem trying to catch one, with everyone swarming you trying to "help" you. We negotiated a price and once aboard were charged for our bags, which we stood strong and only paid half.
It was a cramped ride over mostly dirt, bumpy dirt, roads (at least in the middle section) from Nakuru to Kisumu. In Kisumu we had fish stew (with a whole fish) and ugali, and then we caught a bus to Luanda Kotieno. The bus was great as we had more room. Once we exited the bus we walked to where the ferry picked up in an hour but were able to get right on a boat that took us with about eight others to Mbita. In Mbita we found the Elk Guest House and relaxed the remainder of the evening. We're excited to be on Lake Victoria, Africa's largest.
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Public transport in Kenya and Uganda.
Jon and I have been traveling primarily by matatus which are public minivans that are meant for 15 people. They are available in all towns we have visited thus far and generally cost about $1 or $2 for an hour trip. The roads here are mostly unpaved and they drive on the opposite side of the road. The roads that are paved have no lines marking the middle. There are also very few sidewalks which mean there are many people riding bikes, motorbikes and walking along the sides. The men who drive and collect the money earn more money if they make more trips per day on their route. This means they drive very very fast with little regard for what side of the road they are driving on. With 15 people on board the seating is quite tight as there is generally also bags of a grain, a chicken or two, and a mattress pad or some sacks tied to the top. In Kenya there are police checkpoints to ensure the law of fourteen passengers is being followed and that there is nothing strapped on top of the van. We went through countless check points but never had an officer stop us despite blatantly ignoring the rule. I did however witness the money collector hand the officer a large bill or bribe but it was discrete. When we crossed the border to Uganda the police were less discrete - that's all I will say for now as I am still traveling here.... The matatus in Uganda we have learned are the same size but carry 20 people. Jon usually has his knees to his ears in these vans while it is not so rough for me. Its also a great way to chat with people from the local area and learn about what you see around you. When lucky we can sit in the front seats, which are also referred to as the death seats as they are the most unsafe, but by far the most comfortable. Overall, the public transport while not very comfortable is a great way to get around! More on buses later.
Funny signs along the way
While only in our second country in Africa Carrie and I have seen some funny signs. In a hotel in Nakuru, Kenya, there was a sign on the bathroom door, "PLIZ FLASH THE TOILET". In an electric plant we toured on Mfangano Island on Lake Victoria, Kenya there was a sign about charging phones and for people not working there it was "OUT OF BOUNCE". Coming to Mbale, Uganda on the taxi (minibus) we saw at a stop a "BARBER SALOON". I asked the man next to me if that meant you could get a beer while you had your hair cut. He said "no," and laughed when I explained that in America a saloon was another name for a bar and that they had probably meant to have it read "SALON". Last is on our breakfast menu at our hotel in Mbale, Uganda you can order "SCRUMBLED EGGS". Maybe they're better than scrambled. A little humor goes a long way. Hope everyone is well.
Arrived in Uganda
Yesterday we traveled from Kenya to Uganda. We were very excited and happy after a long bumpy ride to arrive in Mbale. We were looking forward to climbing Mt. Elgon, but today we went to the Park Headquarters and found some disturbing info. The price had nearly doubled over the year. It is now $90 US per person per day, which covers $25 per person per day entry fee, a ranger guide, and hiking experience. A ranger guide and "hiking experience," whatever that is, cost $65 per person per day. We requested no guide and said we already had hiking experience, but the guy in the office could not be persuaded. We told him there was no way we could afford nearly $1000 total for the 4-5 days it would require for us to climb up and down the routes we had researched. We also asked if we could talk with someone about lowering the cost or volunteering to lower the cost. We have to write to someone and by the time all that goes through it's bound to be a couple weeks we imagine. Oh well. We may have to go back to Kenya to climb it or make other plans. Elgon was supposed to be one of the more inexpensive treks in Uganda and now we may have to just travel through Uganda and go to Rwanda and see some gorillas. Time will tell.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Around Fisherman's Camp and Hell's Gate National Park
14/11/11
On the 12th, we had a nice mellow day. We walked up to the little "town" an bought some melon, and orange (which are green outside; let's call them greenges), a mango, an avocado, and two tomatoes all for 60 Ksh--that's 60 cents for all you back home. We walked down the street looking at the shops. We then headed back to camp and shared a couple beers, Tusker (the local Kenyan lager), while we read about what to do the next day. After that we wlked back to town and had an early dinner at the Acacia Cafe. There seemed to be only one option, a bowl of peas with a whole potato and some cabbage. We had some chapati (almost like thick tortillas) with it. The food was pretty good and we watched some TV in the corner while we ate.
After eating we went back to camp and hung out on the picnic table with our neighbors, Sam and Gloria, a couple from Nairobi. They were celebrating one year from their first date. The camp had filled up a bit, as had the bar and we enjoyed our time away from it talking with them. Eventually we sparked up the fire and moved there to continue our visiting.
They were very interesting and fun to talk with. At some point Gloria brought out smokeys for us to heat on the fire. Carrie declined but did eventually take a bite, her first meat in some 20+ years. The night was very nice and calm.
The next day we woke pretty early and had a mango, melon, greenge breakfast. We hired some bikes and prepared to bike to Hell's Gate National Park. Before we left we met Darren from UK and he asked to come with us.
The three of us biked off for Hell's Gate. We entered at Elsa Gate and within the first km we saw six or more ostrich. They were a little way off and we peddled to Fischer Tower where some people were climbing. There we turned and started up the Buffalo Circuit. We climbed slightly and saw some giraffes and zebras and another hoofed animal we did not know.
We back-tracked a bit from the zebras and did another circuit. It brought us up to some views and we saw more ungulates and some carnivore tracks along the road. Then we dropped back to the Buffalo Circuit. There were quite a few animals; zebras, giraffe, impala, gazelle, and others. As we climbed we saw vultures landing and walked off the road to see what they were doing. Many flew off and we discovered the old remains of a zebra. It smelled bad. We walked our bikes most of the way to the highpoint of the road as it was very hot (to us anyway) and humid, and I wasn't feeling very good.
We had a pleasant, steep coast down to to where some boys were herding sheep. We stopped and said hello and carried on. We made it to another spot where there were giraffe and zebra and Darren and Carrie convinced me to rest. I was feeling heat exhaustion coming on. I rested while they walked toward the zebra. From there it was a short distance to finish the circuit and then 2.6 km to the Ranger Post and the start of the walk down the Lower Gorge.
We stopped and ate the avocado and some snacks while watching a monkey and some baboons, pumped some water--thankfully there was some there as Carrie and I didn't have enough--and hired a guide, John, a local Masaii to take us into the gorge. Options were short, medium, and long, and we went for the medium walk.
The gorge was pretty and reminded us of canyons we had seen in Utah. First we went up a side canyon to a sheer-walled pour-over. On the way to this spot we had a couple of spots which required some climbing moves, one next to a large chockstone, and both with some foot/handholds that had been carved into the rock. It was a bit more intense than I had expected and our guide, John, made it up and down with the greatest of ease. He led the walk 3-5 times daily so we weren't surprised. He was very helpful to us getting up and down. When we made it to the pour-over he scrambled right up the 20-30 foot wall. That is where I decided "no more," but he was only showing off.
We turned around and went down the main canyon. Within we were shown a couple hot springs. It started thundering and raining and we went down one steep step and then another tight squeeze, which I was afraid to climb back up. Fortunately we exited the canyon another way. John stopped and showed us a little hole that had red mud that he said the Masaii used to paint their hair and faces. He put some on our cheeks and foreheads. We walked back to the start with thunder, lightning, and fairly heavy rain. It felt great, though, with how hot I had been before.
We then got back on our bikes after most of the rain passed and biked home. We walked a ways as our bottoms hurt from so much biking. We saw many animals, with some new ones from earlier; warthogs mainly and what I believe was two separate secretary birds. They were big. As we were biking back to the gate there was a whole troop of baboon. There were a lot of babies holding onto mothers as they walked, youngsters, and the large patrolling male or two. We made it back to camp, had dinner at the restaurant and passed out early, exhausted after 40 km biking with a short walk in between. Hell's Gate had been great.
On the 12th, we had a nice mellow day. We walked up to the little "town" an bought some melon, and orange (which are green outside; let's call them greenges), a mango, an avocado, and two tomatoes all for 60 Ksh--that's 60 cents for all you back home. We walked down the street looking at the shops. We then headed back to camp and shared a couple beers, Tusker (the local Kenyan lager), while we read about what to do the next day. After that we wlked back to town and had an early dinner at the Acacia Cafe. There seemed to be only one option, a bowl of peas with a whole potato and some cabbage. We had some chapati (almost like thick tortillas) with it. The food was pretty good and we watched some TV in the corner while we ate.
After eating we went back to camp and hung out on the picnic table with our neighbors, Sam and Gloria, a couple from Nairobi. They were celebrating one year from their first date. The camp had filled up a bit, as had the bar and we enjoyed our time away from it talking with them. Eventually we sparked up the fire and moved there to continue our visiting.
They were very interesting and fun to talk with. At some point Gloria brought out smokeys for us to heat on the fire. Carrie declined but did eventually take a bite, her first meat in some 20+ years. The night was very nice and calm.
The next day we woke pretty early and had a mango, melon, greenge breakfast. We hired some bikes and prepared to bike to Hell's Gate National Park. Before we left we met Darren from UK and he asked to come with us.
We back-tracked a bit from the zebras and did another circuit. It brought us up to some views and we saw more ungulates and some carnivore tracks along the road. Then we dropped back to the Buffalo Circuit. There were quite a few animals; zebras, giraffe, impala, gazelle, and others. As we climbed we saw vultures landing and walked off the road to see what they were doing. Many flew off and we discovered the old remains of a zebra. It smelled bad. We walked our bikes most of the way to the highpoint of the road as it was very hot (to us anyway) and humid, and I wasn't feeling very good.
We had a pleasant, steep coast down to to where some boys were herding sheep. We stopped and said hello and carried on. We made it to another spot where there were giraffe and zebra and Darren and Carrie convinced me to rest. I was feeling heat exhaustion coming on. I rested while they walked toward the zebra. From there it was a short distance to finish the circuit and then 2.6 km to the Ranger Post and the start of the walk down the Lower Gorge.
The gorge was pretty and reminded us of canyons we had seen in Utah. First we went up a side canyon to a sheer-walled pour-over. On the way to this spot we had a couple of spots which required some climbing moves, one next to a large chockstone, and both with some foot/handholds that had been carved into the rock. It was a bit more intense than I had expected and our guide, John, made it up and down with the greatest of ease. He led the walk 3-5 times daily so we weren't surprised. He was very helpful to us getting up and down. When we made it to the pour-over he scrambled right up the 20-30 foot wall. That is where I decided "no more," but he was only showing off.
We turned around and went down the main canyon. Within we were shown a couple hot springs. It started thundering and raining and we went down one steep step and then another tight squeeze, which I was afraid to climb back up. Fortunately we exited the canyon another way. John stopped and showed us a little hole that had red mud that he said the Masaii used to paint their hair and faces. He put some on our cheeks and foreheads. We walked back to the start with thunder, lightning, and fairly heavy rain. It felt great, though, with how hot I had been before.
Background
After a number of complaints about our background (I guess everyone's eyes are getting older) we've switched to something still appropriately African though hopefully something kinder to everyone's peeps.
Keep reading.
Cheers.
Keep reading.
Cheers.
Nairobi to Naivasha
12/11/11
Yesterday, the 11th, Carrie and I had breakfast at the hostel and then walked back to the Yaya Center. There we purchased the water bottle (stainless steel) for our fuel canister. The same guy was there from two days prior and so was a mzungu (white person) who seemed to own the place. He recommended against us using it for fuel mainly because of the seal. We told him we had a good seal with our pump. He said there was another place in Langata that may or may not have fuel canisters. We did not have the time or desire to try to track it down and instead bought the bottle. We'll see. In the center we also bought some padlocks, a converter for electrical outlets, and a lighter. After a coffee and a Coke we walked back, called a taxi, and made our way to where we could catch a matatu to Naivasha. The first driver said 700 Ksh after the woman at the hostel told us 500, 600 max. if traffic was bad. We haggled him to 650 and we were off. One block in he got a call, backed up, and said he was giving us to another taxi. That driver took us down. As we neared the area to catch a matatu he told Carrie to put her bag between her feet as there were many people around and he said bad people would snatch the bag if they could--even through a window.
We stepped out of the cab into total chaos, shouldered our huge packs, bought our tickets to Naivasha for 200 Ksh apiece, and then fought our way onto the full matatu where we sat with our packs pretty much on our laps and in front of us. It was a bit uncomfortable but it felt good to be leaving Nairobi. When we got off the matatu in Naivasha a nice guy, Tom, talked with us and asked where we were going. He showed us where to buy our tickets, 80 apiece, and what matatu to catch. We boarded the empty matatu, which was much easier and then Tom joined us, saying he was headed to the same area. He sat by Carrie and explained things to her while I sat next to the speaker playing loud but soothing reggae as we picked up seemingly more people than the matatu could hold, dropping them off here and there along the way. Then was our stop.
Tom, the weaver, exited with us and walked us to the main office where he had his weaving shop adjoining. The place is beautiful. At Fisherman's Camp there is a dock to the lake and many, spaced-out, yellow-barked acacia trees. The ground is grassy and we went to the restaurant/bar first to unwind. There we saw three black and white colobus monkeys in the trees. We also met a nice couple, Jim and Fiji, staying in the upper camp in a banda. When it was nearly dark we set out to set up our tent. We were excited to camp.
After set up we headed back for dinner, which was delicious, but some of the patrons spoiled the mood. We could overhear them talking loudly and drunkenly about taking advantage of local women and other crude things. Carrie said they were too loud and we could hear them, but they continued on their course. Eventually one came over very drunk and sat and talked with us but kept saying really offensive things. We were eventually fed up and decided to leave.
We slept well through a good rain storm and woke up in the middle of the night. Carrie was peaking out and said there was a hippo out there she had been hearing for a while. As we were getting out to see it--it was on the other side of an electric fence to protect the camp--we heard it walk off in the water. I never saw it and we eventually went back to bed listening to the frogs and every so often, the grunts and moans from a hippo or two.
Now we sit in the open-air restaurant having just finished breakfast. We have decided to take today easy and do one of the many activities tomorrow. Many people have come, probably because it is Saturday, but we expect tomorrow to be a bit more mellow in the parks, whichever one we go to.
Yesterday, the 11th, Carrie and I had breakfast at the hostel and then walked back to the Yaya Center. There we purchased the water bottle (stainless steel) for our fuel canister. The same guy was there from two days prior and so was a mzungu (white person) who seemed to own the place. He recommended against us using it for fuel mainly because of the seal. We told him we had a good seal with our pump. He said there was another place in Langata that may or may not have fuel canisters. We did not have the time or desire to try to track it down and instead bought the bottle. We'll see. In the center we also bought some padlocks, a converter for electrical outlets, and a lighter. After a coffee and a Coke we walked back, called a taxi, and made our way to where we could catch a matatu to Naivasha. The first driver said 700 Ksh after the woman at the hostel told us 500, 600 max. if traffic was bad. We haggled him to 650 and we were off. One block in he got a call, backed up, and said he was giving us to another taxi. That driver took us down. As we neared the area to catch a matatu he told Carrie to put her bag between her feet as there were many people around and he said bad people would snatch the bag if they could--even through a window.
We stepped out of the cab into total chaos, shouldered our huge packs, bought our tickets to Naivasha for 200 Ksh apiece, and then fought our way onto the full matatu where we sat with our packs pretty much on our laps and in front of us. It was a bit uncomfortable but it felt good to be leaving Nairobi. When we got off the matatu in Naivasha a nice guy, Tom, talked with us and asked where we were going. He showed us where to buy our tickets, 80 apiece, and what matatu to catch. We boarded the empty matatu, which was much easier and then Tom joined us, saying he was headed to the same area. He sat by Carrie and explained things to her while I sat next to the speaker playing loud but soothing reggae as we picked up seemingly more people than the matatu could hold, dropping them off here and there along the way. Then was our stop.
Tom, the weaver, exited with us and walked us to the main office where he had his weaving shop adjoining. The place is beautiful. At Fisherman's Camp there is a dock to the lake and many, spaced-out, yellow-barked acacia trees. The ground is grassy and we went to the restaurant/bar first to unwind. There we saw three black and white colobus monkeys in the trees. We also met a nice couple, Jim and Fiji, staying in the upper camp in a banda. When it was nearly dark we set out to set up our tent. We were excited to camp.
After set up we headed back for dinner, which was delicious, but some of the patrons spoiled the mood. We could overhear them talking loudly and drunkenly about taking advantage of local women and other crude things. Carrie said they were too loud and we could hear them, but they continued on their course. Eventually one came over very drunk and sat and talked with us but kept saying really offensive things. We were eventually fed up and decided to leave.
We slept well through a good rain storm and woke up in the middle of the night. Carrie was peaking out and said there was a hippo out there she had been hearing for a while. As we were getting out to see it--it was on the other side of an electric fence to protect the camp--we heard it walk off in the water. I never saw it and we eventually went back to bed listening to the frogs and every so often, the grunts and moans from a hippo or two.
Now we sit in the open-air restaurant having just finished breakfast. We have decided to take today easy and do one of the many activities tomorrow. Many people have come, probably because it is Saturday, but we expect tomorrow to be a bit more mellow in the parks, whichever one we go to.
Monday, November 14, 2011
Just a word from Jon
Driving here is not what you might be used to. You drive on the left. No big deal right? Well there also seems to be no speed limit and you can pass anywhere--or at least people do. A flash of lights or honking lets the oncoming car know that you are not slowing down. Pretty entertaining from the (relative) safety in the back of a matatu. Walking on the street is another matter. You better be ready to jump. Fast.
Also, fries. They call them chips here, and they are quite awful. They look like fries but are just oil-soaked potato spears that need five more minutes of frying. Learned my lesson in Nairobi, and then again in Nakuru. Won't make the same mistake a third time...or will I?
That's all for now folks.
Also, fries. They call them chips here, and they are quite awful. They look like fries but are just oil-soaked potato spears that need five more minutes of frying. Learned my lesson in Nairobi, and then again in Nakuru. Won't make the same mistake a third time...or will I?
That's all for now folks.
First week in Kenya!
We have had a terrific first week. On Wednesday the 9th Jon and I visited the Kazuri Bead center and A Giraffe Center for the endangered Rothschild giraffe. The bead center is a cooperative for single mothers affected by the HIV/ Aids virus who make jewelry as part of a fair-trade cooperative and in return live in this compound with their children and other women. There are about 175 women currently living there and far fewer men. The men who live there specialize in pottery. A guide walked us through and explained to us the process of the bead/ pottery making - it was very interesting and a nice experience.
The same day we went to the Giraffe center and learned that at one point there were only 120 Rothschild giraffes left in the world and with the help of this center there are currently about 300. In Kenya there are three subspecies of giraffes and this one in particular had been threatened due to habitat loss. The giraffes were huge and it was very exciting to see our first wildlife in Africa. Also at the center were warthogs, leopard tortoises and several bird species. There is also a walk through the center you can normally participate in, however, it was closed the day we went. Apparently, three days prior a lion had traveled down from Nairobi National park and they were not quite sure where it was at this point. Instead Jon and I did a walk around the center which was very pretty and allowed for some nice exercise.
I must mention that these were in the suburbs of Nairobi so Jon and I ventured onto our first real public transportation in Kenya - interesting to say the least. Basically there are two options very dilapidated buses or vans (matatus) that they load with as many people as possible so that you are sitting on each others laps at points. A typical matatu ride for 30minutes may cost about 30 Kenya shillings which is equivalent to about 30 American cents. You can wait almost anywhere on the street to catch one and at times the music is quite enjoyable at other times it is the opposite. Also on the buses it is not uncommon for a man to jump on and start preaching the word of God at the top of his lungs with extreme enthusiasm. Unfortunately, it's in Swahili with a few English words mixed in so we can only understand small bits and pieces.
Well there is much more to fill you in on but we are out of time. Stay tuned to hear about our first camping experiences, hippos, Hells Gate National park and much more that we have done this week! We head to Lake Victoria tomorrow. Currently we are in Nakuru.. stay tuned!
The same day we went to the Giraffe center and learned that at one point there were only 120 Rothschild giraffes left in the world and with the help of this center there are currently about 300. In Kenya there are three subspecies of giraffes and this one in particular had been threatened due to habitat loss. The giraffes were huge and it was very exciting to see our first wildlife in Africa. Also at the center were warthogs, leopard tortoises and several bird species. There is also a walk through the center you can normally participate in, however, it was closed the day we went. Apparently, three days prior a lion had traveled down from Nairobi National park and they were not quite sure where it was at this point. Instead Jon and I did a walk around the center which was very pretty and allowed for some nice exercise.
I must mention that these were in the suburbs of Nairobi so Jon and I ventured onto our first real public transportation in Kenya - interesting to say the least. Basically there are two options very dilapidated buses or vans (matatus) that they load with as many people as possible so that you are sitting on each others laps at points. A typical matatu ride for 30minutes may cost about 30 Kenya shillings which is equivalent to about 30 American cents. You can wait almost anywhere on the street to catch one and at times the music is quite enjoyable at other times it is the opposite. Also on the buses it is not uncommon for a man to jump on and start preaching the word of God at the top of his lungs with extreme enthusiasm. Unfortunately, it's in Swahili with a few English words mixed in so we can only understand small bits and pieces.
Well there is much more to fill you in on but we are out of time. Stay tuned to hear about our first camping experiences, hippos, Hells Gate National park and much more that we have done this week! We head to Lake Victoria tomorrow. Currently we are in Nakuru.. stay tuned!
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Our first full week!
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
We arrived!!
Carrie and I arrived in Nairobi last night at about 7 p.m. Kenya time after nearly 24 hours on three different planes with just a half hour between two and an hour between two others. Needless to say we were pretty out of it upon arrival. Thankfully we had set up accomodation to have a ride to our hostel. That made things very easy and nice. We made it to the hostel and took some time to unwind before going to bed. We woke up today on Kenya time (10 hours ahead of Mountain Standard Time) and are already on their schedule. It helped that we could not sleep much on the planes due to cramped conditions and excitement.
Today was my first full day in another country and we spent it in what is considered Africa's most dangerous city, just slightly in front of Johannesburg and Lagos. I was pretty intimidated and yet we walked from the relatively safe, gated compound nearly 20 minutes to the city center. Just like we are pretty surprised when we see a black person in Glacier, many people gave us some looks. I was even called "Rasta" a couple of times because of my dreadlochs and I think it was their way to get close and eventually ask for money. No one was overbearing as we walked the very crowed streets dodging cars in the streets and people on the sidewalks trying to find some outdoor shops (Denver airlines would not let us carry our fuel canister as it had had fuel in it; whatever). We found one or two but they were hardly what we would call outdoor shops and neither had what we wanted. So we picked up some money--Kenyan shillings--and exchanged some for American dollars as we find we'll need some of those. American dollars, Euros, and British pounds or whatever they are called are more stable and more widely accepted here than even their own money, especially on bigger purchases.
We walked back, rested and then headed back out into the madness the other way to the Yaya Center where we found a bottle designed for water but our pump fit. We may have to do some research to see if it is acceptable to use with gas and our stove. We then walked down the bustling sidewalks (there are people walking everywhere) to an Ethiopian resturant--my first. It was good, but we may seek out some Kenyan food next time. We then raced back to the compound, Milimani Backpackers, just in time to beat the oncoming darkness. It is strongly recommended not to be walking around the city after dark. To our relief we made it and are excited to have tonight figured out.
Tomorrow we will try to check out a giraffe sancuary or the slums, guided of course. After that we will just have to see. We look forward to the rest of our trip. I am excited, especially after surviving my first major international experience, in my first major international city.
Stay tuned for more.
Dido - Carrie
Today was my first full day in another country and we spent it in what is considered Africa's most dangerous city, just slightly in front of Johannesburg and Lagos. I was pretty intimidated and yet we walked from the relatively safe, gated compound nearly 20 minutes to the city center. Just like we are pretty surprised when we see a black person in Glacier, many people gave us some looks. I was even called "Rasta" a couple of times because of my dreadlochs and I think it was their way to get close and eventually ask for money. No one was overbearing as we walked the very crowed streets dodging cars in the streets and people on the sidewalks trying to find some outdoor shops (Denver airlines would not let us carry our fuel canister as it had had fuel in it; whatever). We found one or two but they were hardly what we would call outdoor shops and neither had what we wanted. So we picked up some money--Kenyan shillings--and exchanged some for American dollars as we find we'll need some of those. American dollars, Euros, and British pounds or whatever they are called are more stable and more widely accepted here than even their own money, especially on bigger purchases.
We walked back, rested and then headed back out into the madness the other way to the Yaya Center where we found a bottle designed for water but our pump fit. We may have to do some research to see if it is acceptable to use with gas and our stove. We then walked down the bustling sidewalks (there are people walking everywhere) to an Ethiopian resturant--my first. It was good, but we may seek out some Kenyan food next time. We then raced back to the compound, Milimani Backpackers, just in time to beat the oncoming darkness. It is strongly recommended not to be walking around the city after dark. To our relief we made it and are excited to have tonight figured out.
Tomorrow we will try to check out a giraffe sancuary or the slums, guided of course. After that we will just have to see. We look forward to the rest of our trip. I am excited, especially after surviving my first major international experience, in my first major international city.
Stay tuned for more.
Dido - Carrie
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